For centuries the whirling dervishes have enchanted onlookers. Developed by the famous scholar and poet Rumi in the 13th century, the ceremony is a heady mix of music, meditation and dance performed by men in long white robes and tall felt hats. The dance is mastered by only a gifted few, who move in continual circles in a hypnotic trance, believing their movements bring them closer to God.

About the whirling dervishes

You may be familiar with the famous Sufi Muslim poet and mystic, Jalal ad-Din Muhammad Rumi. He was a Persian born man who lived in the capital of the Turkish Seljuk Empire, Konya. Rumi is famed for his words and teachings and for developing the original dervish ceremony, called the “Sema”, based on his belief that “there are many roads that lead to God, I have chosen one of dance and music”. Over time, Rumi became very influential and attracted a large and dedicated following. The Mevlevi Semazen were the most well known, who established many of the traditions of the whirling dervishes that we see today.

The symbolism behind the whirling dervish dress

If you attend a dervish show, prepare to be mystified. A lot of symbolism is used during the ceremony, so it is good to read up on the history and customs of the ritual, or the Sema, before attending. The dancers dress in traditional white gowns, with full skirts that rise and fall with their movements and symbolise their egos. Tall, cone-shaped felt hats, called a sikke, are worn in a range of earth tones to indicate their sect and symbolise their egos’ tombstones, and at the start of the performance, the men are seen wearing black cloaks to symbolise their current life and ego. This garment is then cast off before approaching the master, on the completion of three initial whirls, to reveal the white robes as a show of liberation and purity.

The music.

The dancers are accompanied by a singer, a kettle drum, a traditional reed flute called a ney, and a cymbal. The music is hypnotic, and it encourages the performers to dance in dizzying circles using their left foot to propel the right, with their eyes open and unfocused, in a baffling trance. The hems of their skirts move to the rhythm, the rims creating wonderful shapes and patterns, quite unlike anything you’ve seen before. During the whirls, their right hand is held high with their palm facing up to receive God’s blessings, and their left hand is held lower and facing down to transfer God’s wishes to earth. After some time, the dervishes kneel and pray, then start again. This is repeated four times during the ceremony, with the Sema concluding with a prayer dedicated to bringing peace to the soul. Those that watch the performance do so transfixed, as it’s hard not to get dragged into the music and trance.

The Sufi dervishes went underground for decades.

In 1925, everything changed for the dervishes as their sects and orders were closed. For many years, tough legislation prohibited them from Sufi dancing. It wasn’t until 1956 that they were allowed to practice once more, and the government recognised that the dervishes were of significant cultural importance. Given the go-ahead, they started dancing once again on the anniversary of Rumi’s death, which has since become a nine-day Sufi event held each year on Konya.

The whirling dervishes today

Thankfully, we are all welcome to watch the Sufi dancers today – but not all shows are the same. Many tour companies advertise the chance to watch a whirling dervish show around Türkiye, but many are aimed at a tourist audience. This is unfortunate as a true Sufi dervish ceremony is an unforgettable experience.

If you or the guests would like to see the whirling dervishes, we can arrange for you to attend a show at a dervish lodge, of which there are a number in Istanbul and Konya. Here you can enjoy the full experience without large crowds and too much tourist chatter. This is the best way to appreciate the traditions, music and dance.

Dervish show etiquette.

Typically, at a true dervish show or lodge, you are expected to remain silent throughout the performance. All mobile phones and devices are to be switched off, and you are not allowed to take photographs or touch the dancers. Some venues do not allow young children to attend in respect of the silence necessary. During the performance, it is hoped that spectators engage with the ritual by sitting in a circle around the dancers and not leave during the proceedings, which lasts around an hour. If you would like more information or to attend a show, please CONTACT US.