The National Geographic published a Culinary Guide to Istanbul recently, so we thought we would take a look at the article and where they suggest are the best places to eat in Istanbul.

From the humble sesame encrusted simit and street-side doner, to the unique flavours and dishes of Antep, Istanbul has a culinary pulse like no other. The cities food was once said to be behind-the-times according to some food press. But today talented chefs throughout the city are turning this perception around. They are reviving traditional dishes and putting a modern spin on many of the Turkish classics. The Turkish food scene has gained momentum, and there are some excellent places to eat in Istanbul, no matter your budget. As the National Geographic rightly points out, in Istanbul “you’ll never be short of opportunities to eat — so come hungry!”

A FEW GREAT PLACES TO EAT IN ISTANBUL 

A definitive list of the best places to eat in Istanbul would be impossible to collate – there are just so many fabulous restaurants! But, to set you off in the right direction, here are a few haunts that were mentioned in the article, from cheap and cheerful great bites to fancy dining with a view.

Korkmaz Büfe in Moda, Kadıköy. This tiny café/restaurant/takeaway is said to serve the best doner in town. Forget fancy; this is a local spot that’s popular with all walks of life, where the spit-roasted meat will have run out by late afternoon so make sure you get there early. Order your doner in a half-bread, wrap or served open atop a bed of buttered rice – this is simply great food on the go, and the ideal affordable takeaway or street café eat-in if you’re lucky enough to find a table.

Çiya, The Fish Market District, Kadıköy. Çiya is not just one restaurant, but three all located on the same street and run by one of Türkiye’s most famous food historians, Musa Dağdeviren. The original Çiya started life as a simple kebab joint, but chef Musa liked to experiment with dishes inspired by old recipes and flavours. These experiments became so popular that he opened a second restaurant, Çiya Sofrasi, to focus on his love of forgotten Anatolian dishes. Here you can sit in comfort and order from a rich and varied menu. The restaurant has won acclaim in food circles and has for years been one of the areas most popular haunts. Musa’s third venture, Çiya Kebap II, then heads back to his simple kebab and lahmacun beginnings, but this time diners can enjoy more space and a more comfortable environment.

Lades 2, Beyoğlu. Tucked away on a backstreet off Istanbul’s famous Istiklal, is Lades 2. Here, you can enjoy the Turkish breakfast classic, Menemen. Turk’s are well known for their love of breakfast, but this tasty twist on scrambled eggs cooked with chopped tomatoes and peppers is made extra special with the optional added toppings of shredded chicken, spicy beef sausage (sucuk), goats cheese, or sharp white cheese. Lades 2 is another cheap and cheerful place for those that want to start the day the right way.

Dürümzade, Beyoğlu. Those fond of Anthony Bourdain may be keen to try the hole-in-the-wall kebabs he raved about in his blog and TV travels through Istanbul. These are kebabs grilled and served in wraps the Antalya way, and very tasty they are too. Dürümzade is little more than a corner fast food shop, but the homemade kebabs are fabulous, and there are pictures of Bourdain covering the walls giving his culinary approval.

Eleos, Beyoğlu. If lavish dining is more your style, Eleos is the place to head in Beyoğlu. Make sure you reserve a table well in advance and head along to enjoy a fantastic array of seafood dishes, all cooked to perfection. (Be sure to book a terrace table with a Bosphorus view!).

WHERE TO BUY GREAT INGREDIENTS & FRESH PRODUCE

Feriköy Organic Market, Bomonti (Saturdays).
There’s a fabulous covered market held each Saturday in Istanbul’s trendy Bomonti neighbourhood. The Feriköy Organic Market is a hive of activity and a place to source local and seasonal produce. Cheese, eggs, fresh and organic fruit and vegetables, preserves, homemade bread and all manner of delights can be bought cheaply, generally by the kilo.

Tarlabaşı Market, Beyoğlu (Sundays)
The grand and hilly quarter of Tarlabaşı in Beyoğlu hosts an extensive market each Sunday. The stalls are filled with fresh produce of which many are regional varieties. Here you can buy everything from locally picked vine leaves, nuts and olives, to kilos of your favourite fruit and vegetables

Fish Market, Kadıköy
If a fish dinner is on the menu, the Kadıköy Fish Market is the place to head. Stall upon stall of fishmongers all peddle their catch; much of it seasonal, although many international varieties can also be bought from the traders.