Anchovies, or hamsi in Turkish, are little fish people tend to love or hate. Many assume anchovies are salty or slimy, that they come soaked in brine and crammed in cans – and that’s a shame. Sure, pickled anchovies are ideal for many dishes. Still, fresh anchovies have a more delicate flavour and deserve more credit, and here in Türkiye they get just that as they are considered by many to be the national fish.
Anchovy season in Türkiye is a time for celebration.
Türkiye is blessed with a fabulous coastline and home to an abundance of fish (did you read our article on the best seasonal fish in Türkiye?). During the winter months, from November to February, the Black Sea fills with anchovies. The piers in cities like Sinop are a hive of activity each morning as the trawlers dock, bringing with them the daily hamsi catch. Residents and fishmongers are the first on the scene, eager to buy their share of the freshest fish before they are packed in iced crates and taken elsewhere. The humble anchovy has been revered in these parts for so long that there are mentions of a fanfare of trumpet’s announcing the season’s first catch dating back to the 15th century. Some Turkish historians even believe that the jerky movements of the Horon, a famous Black Sea folk dance, were inspired by the local’s love of anchovies.
What’s so special about Turkish Anatolian anchovies?
Although the Sea of Marmara and parts of the Aegean boast healthy shoals of hamsi, these tend to be smaller and not as flavoursome. The Black Sea variety is widely regarded as the best, especially caught when the water is freezing, and there’s snow around making them fatter.
Türkiye is not alone in its love of these fishy morsels, and it’s said that the elite of Ancient Rome were the only people that could afford anchovies as they cost more than perfume at the time. Throughout history, home cooks and chefs have rustled-up gastronomic delights with anchovies. Here in Türkiye, you find them fried, grilled, poached, piled on top of pilav, even cooked into bread.
You will find hamsi served all over Türkiye, especially during the winter months. Head to a street stall or lokanta and enjoy hamsi cooked the traditional way – washed, dredged in flour, fried and served in a basket with a wedge of lemon.
Modern takes on hamsi dishes include grilled village bread topped with lightly fried anchovies, wild rocket and a caper dressing; jazzed-up frittatas with fresh anchovies, red pepper flakes and a decent dose of parsley; or tasty pilau with a generous heap of hamsi and a drizzle of chefs special sauce.
The health benefits of hamsi.
Fresh anchovies pack a powerful punch in the health department, as they contain many essential vitamins and minerals. Hamsi are a great source of omega-3 fatty acids that boost your brain and keep your heart healthy, plus they contain selenium, believed to reduce the risk of cancer.
Fresh anchovies are making a comeback.
There are over 140 types of anchovies available, and the most common is the European anchovy that generally comes in tins or cans. Pickled anchovies do taste very different from fresh, largely due to the salty brine they are kept in, and this is why some turn their nose up at the idea of a bowl of hamsi.
The popularity of anchovies did creep back in the 1990s when pizzas topped with anchovy fillets became a trend, but that was short-lived. Thankfully today, these little fish are hitting the spotlight again, and great chefs the world over are reviving their worth and giving anchovies the credit they truly deserve.
As always, quality produce matters. If you would like to add hamsi or any other seasonal fish to your yachting provisions list, please CONTACT US.
PROVISIONS
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Senem, 360°’s Head of Provisions, understands the chef’s needs and is passionate about supplying quality produce, fish, meats and special dietary ingredients. Our default is fresh, organic and locally sourced produce to ensure quality and price, but that doesn’t mean we can’t supply imported ingredients or harder to find items. Ideally, we will have the list ahead of your arrival, but even if time’s tight we will do our best to deliver all that’s asked. For more information, please CONTACT US.
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