Hidden in a valley a short distance between Fethiye and Oludeniz Bay is Kayakoy, one of Türkiye’s most mesmerising villages. A former Greek town, much of Kayakoy today lies in roofless ruins following a forced population exchange in 1923. It’s nicknamed ‘the ghost town’, but as you will discover, it’s a place that leaves a striking impression on its visitors and feels a world away from the mayhem of the nearby resorts.

ABOUT KAYAKOY

Kayakoy is a fascinating village located just 8km from Fethiye town centre or less than a 10-minute drive from Gemiler Beach (opposite St. Nicholas Island). Kayakoy was once an affluent town called Lebessos, or Livissi in Modern Greek. The majority of its population were Greek Orthodox who lived in harmony with local Ottoman Turks until World War 1. Then, in 1923 the Treaty of Lausanne forced the remaining Greeks to be taken back to their homeland.

THE HISTORY OF KAYAKOY (LIVISSI)

Kayakoy, like many former Greek towns across Türkiye, has a sad past. Its narrow cobbled streets, tiny stone houses, churches, chapels and schools were once full of joy, but today lie in ruins – roofless, unloved and abandoned. The majority of the town dates back to the 18th century; however, Lycian rock tombs can be found locally. Historians believe the area was first occupied by those who fled Byzantine Gemiler Island in fear of sea bandits and pirates.

The population of Kayakoy grew significantly following an earthquake in 1856 that devastated nearby Fethiye, known then as Makri. A colossal fire in 1885 boosted the number of residents further to well over 6,000. The mixed community of Greek Orthodox Christians and Ottoman Muslims thrived during this time, both religions living harmoniously, sharing local amenities and common goals. The town ran smoothly until a combination of events during the First World War, the fall of the Ottoman Empire and an attempted Greek occupation of Anatolia led to the town’s demise. Finally, the Treaty of Lausanne forced the few remaining Greek citizens to return to Greece in 1923 and the Muslim Turks to head back to Türkiye.

The Turks who returned from Greece didn’t want to live in the artisan and craftsman Greek homes built on Kayakoy’s hillside. Instead, they moved inland to farm and grow crops. Years later, an earthquake in 1957  took its toll on the town, and anything of worth in the buildings was stripped and taken, leaving it to crumble and ruin resembling little more than a ‘ghost town’.

KAYAKOY TODAY

The passage of time certainly took its toll on Kayakoy, but a visit to the village today is an interesting glimpse into the past. The majority of the old stone houses are shells, although you can imagine how busy the area was during its heyday. Today the area is popular with tourists, and several boutique restaurants, hotels, traditional pancake houses and even a wine house are present at the foot of the site and scattered throughout the valley. Thankfully, strict building laws are in place to keep development to a minimum, so it retains a rustic charm and appeal.

Highlights of Kayakoy include the remains of two Greek Orthodox churches, a school, a fountain dating back to the 17^th century, and a high chapel overlooking the valley offering views over the bay of Oludeniz. The area has inspired many artists, screenwriters and authors, including Louis de Bernieres, who based “Eskibache” on Kayakoy in his 2004 novel Birds Without Wings, and it was also the setting for the closing scenes of Russel Crowe’s movie The Water Diviner.

The village of Kayakoy is now protected and an open-air museum. A small entry fee is required to visit the site and 360 Yachting can arrange a private guide to take you on a tour to best describe the area and its history. In addition, there are many fabulous walks and guided treks in the area. A section of the Lycian Way, a walk to Cold Water Bay, a look around the ruins of Afkule Monastery or a hike to the rear of Oludeniz Lagoon can all easily be arranged on request. Please CONTACT US for details.